Dwat InverttLv Plans

Copyright 1996 - 2003 Creative Science & Research

BUILDING THE

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OPTION ONE

This is a homemade Commutator designed by Rick Harrison, This DC Commutator is used to turn off the incoming DC voltage to the HV Voltage or Low Voltage Magnetic Coil. We are going to create a junction bar that rotates and as it rotates it will slide onto the 2 carbon DC motor brushes and cause a complete connection causing DC current to flow into the Electromagnetic coil. We are going to give you 2 options in making a DC motor commutator. Pick which one is easiest for you.

STEP ONE

Cut a piece of 3/4" Diameter" x 1 3/8" length copper pipe that you can buy at any hardware store.

Use a pipe cutter to cut a piece 1 3/8" long.

STEP TWO

Next using rough sand paper, sand the inside of the copper pipe really good. And then clean with laquer thinner. Surface must be free from dirt.

STEP THREE

Using a Q-Tip, Grease a piece of card board a little larger than the copper pipe diameter, this is so the epoxy will not stick to the Card board surface and can be removed when dry. You now need to fill the copper pipe with Epoxy, so slowly squeeze out enough J-B Epoxy to fill the inside of the copper pipe, follow all directions on the J-B Instructions, Mix the 2 parts very well and start placing the epoxy inside of the copper pipe. Let dry 24 hrs, I prefer to wait 40 hrs, but the instruction do not tell you that. We use J-B Epoxy because it is the best on the market and can stand up to 600 degrees.

STEP FOUR

Figure #3

Now you must find the exact center of the pipe and score it with a sharp punch. You will be scoring or punching a small hole into the top of the epoxy. Now you are going to need a drill press. Place the copper pipe up as you see in figure #3, Make sure bottom surface is very flat, if it is not the hole will be crooked and the commutator will ride with the shaft crooked and cause a off balance at high speeds. start off with the smallest drill bit you have and work your way up until you have a hole the same size as your shaft rods outer diameter.

Figure #3

Figure #4

Figure #4

separates the brushes from contacting each other. Cut all the way around pipe.

Use a very fine hacksaw \ blade to cut spacers, fill spacers with epoxy and sand smooth.

Acts as a Junction Bar separates the brushes from contacting each other. Cut all the way around pipe.

Use a very fine hacksaw \ blade to cut spacers, fill spacers with epoxy and sand smooth.

STEP FIVE

Now using a fine point marker, mark your cut marks on the outside of the copper pipe piece. As shown in figure #4. Use a fine tooth hacksaw to cut. Cut a long center cut all the way around the copper pipe leaving a 3/4" space. Cut all the way through the copper and just up to the hardened epoxy fill. Do not to deep into the epoxy fill.

Fill in the cuts with epoxy, let dry 24 hrs then sand down until smooth. Now take a 5/16" steel shaft and place it back into the epoxy hole, now place a steel 5/16" shaft collar onto the steel rod and epoxy it to the end of your new commutator, ( remove the plastic end first. )

Page 10

The base is made of 1/8" aluminum, for a nice looking research prototype we also recommend plexi glass if you do not wish to use the aluminum. If you are having trouble finding aluminum try your local Machine Shop, for plexi glass ask any Sign shop in your area or check your local yellow pages under plastics. If you did not purchase a kit from us.

12"

5/16"

DRILL SIZE 9/64" BOLT SIZE IS 6/32 X 3/8"

3 y2"

3 y2"

5/16"

Aluminum 1/8"channel, check hardware stores, steel suppliers, lumber yards. Drill these holes at: Drill holes to 7/64". You will need a qty of - 2. You will need to tap out each hole, ( Thread it ) using a 6-3 NC tap plug style.

PART "C"

5/16" steel round rod

12"

You will need three short pieces, two for the magnets to be used as spacers and one for a Shaft mold for making Commutator

Use W aluminum bar. Check at: Machine shops, Steel suppliers in your Yellow Pages, Steel salvage yards etc... Drill two holes on each arm, use a 5/16" drill bit. After you install roller bearing assembly on part " D ", remove roller bearing and drill a bigger hole using a 11/32" drill bit. On Part " E " Drill only halfway through, so the 5/16 rotor shaft can turn on it.

Roller bearing assembly, Use a large steel washer, assemble this after you put the Rotor shaft and arms together Once your shaft is running through Part " D " hole, you can then place the Roller bearing onto it. Grease the outer part of the bearing, Predrill 2 or 3 holes in the large steel washer, place the large washer over top of the roller bearing, center and mark your holes, use a 7/64" drill bit and tape out your holes with a 6-3 NC tap, then attach the washer to Part " D " with 6-32 x1 bolts. Now mix up some J-B weld or Pc7 Epoxy and fill the inside beneath the washer and all around the roller bearing. ( Make sure bearing is greased well so you can remove it to later drill your larger hole. The reason you need to dril l a larger hole later is so your rotor shaft can turn more easily. Let epoxy dry for 24 hrs, then remove your Steel washer roller bearing plate, then remove your roller bearing, drill a bigger hole in Part "D" then place you bearing back onto the molded roller bearing assembly.

ASSEMBLY

Cut two 1 5/16" x /" x /" x 1/16" Square steel.

J - B weld or PC 7 EPOXY

Plastic Separator

Plastic Separator

/

| PART " G" I!

Fill with PC 7 Epoxy or J - B weld about 1/4" deep.

Brush: grease brush and place inside of square steel part # "F", Let sit and dry for 24 hrs, then remove brush and clean it off.

As an alternative to using brushes, you could replace with heat treated copper, which has some spring to it. Place the copper on part " M " and bend the copper upward.

PART "M"

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NOTICE: For a 220 volt dc output simply use two 12 vdc batteries in series and step up.

Use a 8 x 3/4" x 1/16" or best to use 1/8" steel bar. This is used to hold the Brush Assembly.

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PART "N"

Hl^FT ODLLAHS

To fit 5/16" D or buy one and drill it to size 5/16"

You will need a qty of two. The first shaft collar is to hold the shaft into place, allow a 1/8" space or more between collar and Part "D" The 2nd steel shaft collar is to be epoxied ( Glued ) to one end of the finished commutator.

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