Construction Guide How to Build an Adams Motor for Under

Having briefly covered the history and theory of device operation, I will now present a simple guide to construction. This is a genuine cold current motor I have built and tested myself.

Costing a 4 Pole Adams Motor - List of Parts You Need for Construction


Price US$

Description and comments

2 CDs


Can be taken from old computer magazine covers, for example

4 magnets


Basic ceramic / ferrite parts are just fine



Hall ic, transistor / mosfet, general purpose wire

12v battery


Basic 12v unit is fine

1 reel 24awg stator wire


Enameled copper required to wind stator (0.56mm)

4 mild steel nails


1 for the stator, 1 for central shaft, 2 to hold wood crossbar down

Washers / nail head covers


Needed to mount CD, end stators, etc



To fix rotor

2,500 psi epoxy glue


To fix magnets



Cheap by any definition

Note: You may misorder parts, and find you have to order in bulk above the quantity strictly required for your motor. The point remains however, you can build a cold electricity device for $50 on a per unit basis. No question. That includes absolutely EVERYTHING.

Adams Motors

The first step is filling in the center of the CD. I illustrate with two methods I used. The first did not deliver complete rotor stability, the second a simple doorstop made of hard shiny plastic, did. I only mount the lower CD. The upper CD provides rotor stability, completing the magnet 'sandwich.' Other people have used parts from old video recorders, hard drives, record players, 1/4" bike bearings, etc - any decent mounting is fine. Use parts to hand and common sense. Plastic parts are to be preferred because they are non conductive and offer only frictional losses.

Adams Engine Circuit

The magnets are fixed with 2,500 psi epoxy glue (comes in 2 syringes, resin and hardener). Be sure to mix thoroughly for best results, and try and get an exothermic brand for faster setting. I now apply it in layers. One thin application, 12 hours to set, then another, etc. Magnets are all S poles out. This is mainly for the benefit of the Hall ic timing circuit, but S poles also seem to deliver a small performance gain over N poles. Note: CDs only make stable rotors when used in epoxy magnet sandwich pairs, and you need a classic hard pressed CD, not a flimsy CD-R type.

This is the rotor fitted onto a wooden board, with a nail hammered through a wooden crossbar as the central shaft. You have to do this bit in the right order.

1. First I hammered the main shaft nail into the base board to depth of 1cm or so, leaving a 1 cm deep hole

2. Then I removed the nail and hammered it through the crossbar - be neat!

3. Newly embedded crossbar nail threaded on rotor

4. Nail head cover supports placed on lower part of nail as pivot for rotor

5. Glued crossbar underside to fix itself on side supports when put in position, this is backed up by nails

6. Shaft nail pushed into previously established hole in base board made in stage one, but which is newly filled with sealer glue. Give one tap to drive the nail in a little deeper. Leave to set for 1 hour.

Adams Motor

Stators. Many people ignore Mr Adam's 4:1 instruction, and do not build stators with the geometry suggested (stator head HALF width / height of rotor magnet - VERY IMPORTANT ). The stator wind is the most critical part of the motor, and while I appreciate conventional theory says these stators are wrong in several respects, I can assure you this is what is required. The reason everyone has been having such TERRIBLE trouble replicating the Adams motor, and there must have been a reason somewhere, is that none of the people with the academic skills to do this properly, will countenance using such an apparently bizarre and dysfunctional rotor / stator geometry. It is a high ohm mess frankly, and I am fully aware this design would just burn up in a conventional motor. If in any doubt, just copy what you see in the pictures above. A mild steel nail about 100mm long with an 8.5mm head makes a most excellent and highly cost effective stator core, and I used a tap washer (bathroom section in your local hardware store, a non conductive part) to 'end,' my stator. Pair that with rotor magnets about 18mm ( 3/4" approx ) in diameter. Works great. Please only try something else once you have got the motor already running cold / ambient. Many people are trying to 'improve' this motor with ferrite cores etc, and usually end up with inferior results. The stators MUST be wound solid to 90-100% of the rotor magnet width, with as many turns as possible to maximize current induction on each rotor pass and precharge / potentialize / the stator windings. I have found 24 awg (0.56mm) wire to be a helpful base to work from in this respect. If you do not massively over wind the stators, the over-unity effect when motor speed doubles and current draw halves, DOES NOT FULLY MANIFEST. Basically the trade off here is a loss in efficiency due to poor rotor / stator geometry from a strictly conventional point of view, but you more than get it back because the same design 'flaws' facilitate the over-unity effect. You just have to take the hit, and do what is required to manifest the over-unity effect. No way round it.

• Stator construction is where most people building an Adams motor screw up. A properly engineered Adams motor requires a stator that to conventionally trained eyes, looks like an utterly horrific I2R loss inducing mess. How can such a badly designed stator possibly be used on a high efficiency motor? Well, the answer is of course that the o/u feature of the motor is the Lenz current freely induced in the stator windings. The stator is therefore designed from the point of view of optimizing current induction, all other design parameters are rescinded. The stator therefore has an integrated generator functionality, and is NOT a classical motor pure drive device as such.

• Ultra low ohm sets perform much worse, and the inability to grasp this simple fact, is one reason why most scientifically educated people find it almost impossible to build Adams motors. 24 awg wire is a suggested sensible starting point for experimentation (0.56mm). No lower.

• S poles seem to work a little better. Mr Adams generally illustrates with N poles, the difference is not large enough for him to have noticed it, apparently.

• Circular or square faced magnets are not critical. Both have now been shown to work. Square magnets like mine are easier to fix down, but only circular faced magnets are sold in suitable sizes it would appear. If thin magnets are obtained, glue 2/3 together to make one longer magnet.

• The magnets should 'yaw' into register. Tiny button magnets do not do this. Make sure you have built a demagnetization motor, and NOT just a push motor. While you can get over-unity results of sorts with push motors, cold running has yet to be demonstrated. Optimizing for a 'yaw' effect, also requires proper rotor balance and low friction. Pay attention to that.

• In its most basic manifestation, negative energy offers halved current draw, with NO LOSS IN DELIVERED POWER. This is a very large part of the over-unity effect, and the coldness of your motor is an excellent real time guide as to whether your are getting reduced current draw or not. This is not to be confused with the return to source current flow, which is separate. Increased speed is also noted.

• The motor uses simple ferrite / ceramic magnets. You should only try working with NIB magnets once you have experience.

• Keep the motor SMALL, for the critical short pulse duration cold current demands. Use 3/8 cores and 6/8 magnets (mine are 8.5mm cores and 18mm magnets - to be precise. All numbers refer to diameter). Size matters. The o/u mode seems a bit on/off in its performance, and hence extra turns does not give you extra resonance. Current draw is either halved or it is not. Yes / no type situation. Also, it seems to be better to make the motor smaller than this suggested size, rather than larger, in general.

• Apart from the stator cores, keep as much metal out of the design as possible. It acts as a drag upon the rotor, lowering efficiency. For example, wood is a useful material, despite the fact it may appear to be low tech and 'primitive.'

• A standard household power supply that was previously running my computer speakers was used for initial testing purposes, specd at 3,6,9,12v and 500 ma regulated, with 13W power. These units are readily available from any decent hardware store. However, *NOTE* while the chill factor fully manifests with these regulated power units, and they are great for testing because they do not run down, if doing serious efficiency testing, an unregulated battery power supply will generally produce superior results.

• It is not illustrated above, but tape two tape insulation layers are both simple and beneficial in construction. Put one insulation layer on the stator core (nail body), and a second round the finished and fully wound stator, to enclose it between the two non conductive tap washers.

• Expect to build 2/3 CD rotors before you get it right. Small rotor instability problems can really kill the rpms, and you never quite know how the rotor will perform until it is actually up and running. You need to be very neat and careful.

• When firmly pushed your rotor should spin for 8-20 seconds (no stators present of course!), depending upon rotor mass and flywheel effect manifested, of course. If not, maybe you need to think some more on executing properly on the mechanical basics

• Hall ic timing is done directly off the S pole faces of the magnets. Branded side of Hall ic faces rotor magnets.

• Air gap somewhere in the range 1-1.5 mm. The high end of that range is fine. NOTE: if you use NIB magnets you will have to use 24-30v to enable this (only at 24-30v do you get full stator demagnetization). Which is one of several reasons why NIB motors are much harder to build, unless you use small 1/2" NIB magnets.

• Understand the 4:1 ratio. Basically this just means your stator core is half as wide/tall as your rotor magnet. Does not matter if you have round stator, square rotor magnets. Do not fixate on the area, rather the twice as aspect of it. And point to note: this is not sacred geometry! The 4:1 rule is not precise, it is a rule of thumb. There is no reason why 3:1 or 5:1 could not in the right setup be made to work, but 4:1 is a sensible ratio with margin for error to aim for. The conversion to cold current is a probability function, and a 3:1 configuration may mean that not all the current is properly converted, sharply reducing the amount of 'back emf you can pull off.

• I used 24awg wire (0.56mm), which is small enough to offer decent performance, while being large enough to be fairly easy to wind. Also, point to note, high ohm sets and tend to blow Hall ics. 24awg is within the limits of Hall ics. It is a good place to start - other higher ohm sets and additional stators can be tried later if desired.

• Run the motor at multiples of the 9v negative energy harmonic for optimal current draw results e.g. 12 is the minimum required to fully close the air gap down, but after that 18v, 27v, 36v, 45v, etc should be used.

• Bifilar winds on the stators, while not in any way essential to manifesting the over-unity effect, deliver stronger electromagnets and hence superior results

• DO NOT put a mechanical load on the rotor

• Oil the rotor shaft (basic but necessary). With 30-40 minutes use you may also find your rotor improves and 'works itself in.' Then try adding a little more oil.

• Mild / bright steel nails are to be preferred as stator cores because of the reduced carbon content

• Stators wound to paperclip test depth described below

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  • max kohl
    How to make a rotor for the adams motor?
    8 years ago

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