grunting and cussing when the axle jams. Powder-paint or paint your frame to prevent rust.

Rube Goldeberg's Delight (V-Belt Transmission)

This contraption has two jackshaft assemblies, each with a V-belt driven pulley on one end and a drive sprocket on the other. (Photo 3) The drive sprocket end also includes a chain tensioner. The motors themselves are in the footpedal controls.

Jackshaft Assembly

You will need the frame plus all the parts shown in the accompanying layout (Photo 4).

Some items come from a commercial 5/8" X 10" jackshaft kit, item # 13815-C086 in the Northern Hydraulics catalog (1-800-533-5545). Some are hardware store items (the belts and pulleys came from Orchard Supply Hardware) and some you must modify or fabricate.

Fabricated Parts.

The U-mount plates are made from scratch. You need 1/4" steel plate. Cut and drill according to the two accompanying drawings. The rows of holes are on 0.5"

Above: Photo 4 Jackshaft and Parts Layout centers. Make the chain tensioner bridge from two steel flat sections and a thick triangular flange.

Modified Parts

Each outboard bushing mount plate is also part of the chain tensioning assembly. Mount a 4" section of 1/420 threaded rod (Redi-bolt) to the flat edge of the plate. If you weld it, remove the bushing or it may jam or distort, becoming useless for anything except junk sculpture.

Parts List

Refer to Photo 4 again. From top to bottom and left to right, we have:

1. Outboard bushing plate with 5/8"bushing .

2. Outboard U-mount plate

3. Inboard U-mount plate

4. 5/8" diameter spacer

5. Inboard bushing plate

6. Drive sprocket 3/16" key (Cut from key stock)

7. Drive sprocket

8. 5/8" diameter spacers, (3) (same item as in 4.)

11. 10 inch, 5/8" diameter pulley

12. Keys (Cut from 3/16" key stock) 4 needed

13. 5/8" jackshaft with milled keyways for 3/16" key

14. 1/4-28 X 1" capscrews or bolts with flat washers, lockwashers and nuts (8) (not shown in photo)

15. Chain tensioner bridge

The jackshaft still has one bushing. (Yes, it jammed. I goof up too.)

Attacking Entropy (Assembly Instructions)

Do the left-side jackshaft first. Back the setscews out of the shaft collars. The shaft and inside of the collars must be clean and free of metal shavings or burrs.

Using Photo 5 as a reference, slide components onto the shaft in the following right-to-left order: three


Left: Photo 5 Bare Jackshaft Assembly

Drill to match holes in outside U-mount plate (1/2" centers)

Trim along dotted lines to reduce bulk and weight spacers, outboard bushing mount plate with bushing, and shaft collar (don't tighten yet). Shove 'em all the way to the left, then leave a length of free shaft and mount another shaft collar, one spacer, the inboard bushing mount plate and another spacer. Set the assembly aside on a clean cloth.

The right side jackshaft assembly is a mirror image of the left. Put it together and lay it beside its twin.

Place each U-mount plate against the mounting flanges on the frame, clamp, centerpunch and drill through for 1/4-28 X 1" allen-head capscrews. The shorter inboard plate goes to the inside of the supporting frame member while the longer outboard plate bolts outside (Refer to Photo 3).

Holding each jackshaft assembly level (so that the parts don't slide off), mount it in the U-plate supports. Using 1/4-28 nuts, flat washers and lockwashers, bolt through the third hole from the top on both sides of the U-mount plate and the slots in the bushing mount plate. Tighten only enough to hold the assembly together. Mount both jackshafts.

Add the chain tensioner bridge to each side. This square U-shaped piece fits behind the outboard bushing mount plate and the outboard U-mount (refer to Photo 3 again). With the inboard U-mount and bushing plate still fastened, remove the bolts on the outboard end. Slip the chain tensioner into place. The upright threaded rod feeds through the hole in the chain tensioner bridge (see Photo 3). Holes in the chain tensioner legs should line up with the same holes in the U-mount and slots in the bushing mount plate. Put the bolts through all three and re-tighten nuts. Thread two nuts, an adjustment nut and a jam nut, onto each tensioner rod.

Now install the sprockets and pulleys. For each one, place a 3/16" key into the milled keyway. Line up the key slot in the hub and slide the part on. Position the setscrew over the key and tighten, then tighten any other setscrew in the part. When it matches Photo 3,

Drill to match holes in outside U-mount plate (1/2" centers)

Trim along dotted lines to reduce bulk and weight

Right: Chain Tensioner Bridge, 1/8" Thick steel tighten the setscrews. The jackshafts should turn freely, with minimal side-to-side slip.


Author: Clare Bell 271 Molina Dr. Santa Cruz, CA 95060. (408)469-9185. For detailed instructions and fabrication drawings, send $5. HP can't print them all.

Northern Hydraulics 800-533-5545 • fax 612-894-0083

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