Total Power System Integration

No Inverter Needed the INFINITY-1832™ has everything built in !

/ 3.2 kw Sine Wave Inverter, Ultra Pure 120 and 240 VAC (No Transformer Needed!)

/ 100 amp PV Charge Control!

✓ 3 PV Inputs, 3 DC load circuits, 12 AC Load Circuits, All Breakers Included!

/ 100% Fully Digital Control, Metering, Computer Interface...Everything!

/ Only One Box to Mount, Fully Pre-Wired, No Inverter Wiring!

Imagine...No power sub-station on your wall...It's neat, clean and organized We've put everything inside

Hang it on the wall, hook up battery, connect PV... It's ready to run!

Our suggested retail is only $3,195.00, check with your dealer (call us for a dealer list!) You can't buy the parts and build your own system for less!

If you already have an inverter, try the Infinity-6, same as above, but no AC hardware.

Call us for free brochures, or see it on the internet at

Sun Selector®... Putting the power in your hands!

PO Box 1545, Parkersburg,WV 26101 • (304) 485-7150 or fax (304) 422-3931

©1996 John Dailey

In the spring of 1990, we put up a Windseeker II to evaluate the feasibility of wind power. Here on our homestead in the foothills of the Alaska Range, we get frequent blows lasting a day or two, and then calm for a week or so. We constructed a 50 foot tower from a 20 foot utility pole and three lengths of 2 inch pipe (see HP 28 page 26). After two years of operation with our Windseeker II, we felt that our local wind regime merited a larger machine.

After a false start with a machine that was not really designed for our rugged mountain winds, we took the plunge and bought an 850 watt Bergey. This Bergey was selected to withstand the rigors of our 80+ mph Chinook winds and has lived up to its sterling reputation. This bigger machine needed a stronger tower, and after reading Mr. Wind's great articles on tower height (see Mick Sagrillo's Econ 101 and 102, HP 37 and 38), we realized an extra 10 feet would greatly increase our output.

This is one person's solution, and not appropriate for all. Be sure it is right for you and that you have access to the appropriate materials and tools. If you have any doubts, consult qualified persons.

Any tower type, whether free-standing, guyed lattice, or guyed pole, must allow the owner/operator access to the wind machine for periodic maintenance. Generally, pole towers are lowered, not climbed, and the machine is then serviced on the ground.

These towers can be built from a variety of locally available materials. In our neighborhood, there is an abundant surplus of old 20 foot utility poles from the abandoned Anchorage to Fairbanks telegraph line, so one of these poles was the starting point for us. Our pole is about nine inces at the base. Use your imagination to take advantage of the materials available to you locally, but be careful to get it right; you don't want to wait for a nasty blow to realize that you underbuilt. By then, it's too late to do anything but wring your hands and stay out of the way as your tower and expensive machine come crashing down.

A Note about Safety

Although towers that lower your genny to the ground for service are in many ways safer than towers you must climb, remember that falling bolts, forgotten tools, etc.

Above: The Dailey homestead in the foothills of the Alaska Range, showing the Bergey 850.

can still dent your head when falling 60 feet. So, unless you are tougher than Wyl-E-Coyote, WEAR A HARDHAT! During the critical raising and lowering phases, remove all pets and kids from the area: you'll have enough to worry about. (See safety sidebar.)

You Can Build It!

The design of this tower is simple: a 20 foot utility pole is permanently guyed and serves as a fixed gin pole. A 60 foot wooden pole hinges at 1 foot up the from the base of the gin pole. The pole swings from a horizontal access position up to vertical and is then clamped with a heavy nylon strap with a ratcheting binder to the top of the fixed utility pole. Additional guys run from the top of the tall pole down to the same ground anchors that secure the utility pole guys. All guy wires are 3/16 inch. A chain saw winch (rush right out and buy one of these gems, if you're a homesteader and don't already have one...), or tractor, pickup truck, etc., can pull the main pole and attached generator up or down. The winching cable should also be a minimum of 3/16 inch.

After you have selected a good wind site, lay out your tower location and where you will locate the three guy anchors. The minimum guy radius is 50% of the tower height if you have a small field, but 75% is better. The wider the guy radii, the more horizontal the supporting guy wires are, and the less is the downward, buckling force on the tower during strong winds. Bergey recommends a simple method to eliminate plotting angles for the tower foundations (see guy sidebar).

Once you have laid out the positions for the guy anchors and the tower, the next step is to secure the guy anchors so that they cannot pull out. Our soil has good shear strength so we were able to use auger type anchors (excavated and re-buried). No concrete deadmen were required. Evaluate you own situation, though, and make sure that they will not pull out. A small backhoe is very valuable here, although (we can only imagine that) a strong back will get the job done, too.

To install the permanent utility pole, excavate and pour one foot below grade an approximately 2 by 2 by 1 foot thick concrete pad with some rebar incorporated. The base of the utility pole will be anchored laterally as it is buried a little. Tamp the soil in around the pole above the pad. If you have very rocky, well-drained soil like ours, you will not even need the concrete pad, but pour the pad if you need to. You do not want the tower settling later and slacking your guy wires. Plumb this permanent gin pole, and tighten the guy turnbuckles.

Fabricate a hinge bracket and bolt it to the base of the utility pole, about a foot above grade. We used two pieces of 1/4 by 14 by 18 inch plate steel with a piece of plate welded across the outside bottom to keep them parallel. This hinge bracket should be bolted through the permanent gin-pole in three places with 1/2 inch bolts.

For the tower pole, you need to find a long, straight, strong pole. You can sometimes find these poles where there is crowded tree growth. These trees seem to reach tall and straight towards the sun, with little bend or taper. We used a peeled Sitka Spruce pole. Select a strong straight pole from the appropriate local species and peel it, but don't worry about treating the wood. (ed. note: We can't overemphasize the need to choose a strong spar Some tree species may not be up to this task, and others could have weakness because of large knots or other flaws. Also, do not try to use heavy wind machines with this design. The Bergey weighs 86 lb If

120o Guy Anchor Positioning exerpted fron BWC installation manual

120o Guy Anchor Positioning exerpted fron BWC installation manual

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